'90% of the passengers on this cruise come back to do it all over again'

My singing abilities certainly aren’t up toMeryl Streep’s– or even Pierce Brosnan’s. But when I stood at the spot where the pair performed The Winner Takes It All in the 2008 Abba movie Mamma Mia!, I couldn’t help but hum the tune under my breath.

The chapel of St John, on the Greek island of Skopelos, perched 200 steps up on top of an outcrop, made the stunning backdrop when Streep, as Donna, sang the emotive melody to Brosnan – the Sam she thought had abandoned her 20 years earlier.

While the scenery is just as impressive, filmmakers created a new exterior for the church and filmed the interior shots elsewhere. Handrails have been put on the steepest half of the ascent to help the thousands of fans who visit every week.

The beach elsewhere on the island that was also used in the box office hit is a lot more crowded now – and missing the jetty that was built just for the set.

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Even so, the visit was a highlight of a week’s voyage on the tall ship Star Clipper that combined ancient with modern. It began in Athens where, under a full moon, the sails on the four towering masts started to unfurl to the stirring music of Vangelis.

This was no ordinary cruise. As we ventured out on to the silvery sea in search of small islands, it was also a sail of the centuries back to the time when square riggers, barques and schooners ruled the seas.

There are no water slides or dodgem cars on these ships, only two small pools, a library, a couple of bars and a restaurant. The 126 passengers on our cruise – the ship can take 166 – spent their days learning how to read charts, tie knots or follow the stars. Or simply relaxing.

There’s a chance to climb the rigging, clamber out on to the bowsprit at the front of the ship, or even take a turn at the helm under the watchful eye of the captain. Even the 20 children on board – part of a large Belgian group – had fun swimming, playing board games andexploring.

On a choppy first night, with 10ft swells and 57mph winds, my wife Mandy and I rolled around on the cosy beds in our compact cabin. Getting to the en-suite bathroom felt like climbing a hill. The timbers were certainly shivering.

But with the throbbing heartbeat of the engine and the splashing of the waves, we were soon rocked back to sleep. By the time we had crossed the Aegean to reach Dikili in Turkey after a day at sea, the ocean had calmed.

Docked near the town centre, I took a coach to the ancient town of Pergamon, first its ruined hospital then the acropolis towering over the landscape.

If you think ­psychotherapy is new, think again. The second-century doctors used to whisper at patients as they walked along a tunnel to encourage them to get better. The nearby Acropolis, which has an impressive amphitheatre, invented a new way of making paper, so Pergamon gave the world the word “parchment”.

The following morning we headed back to Greek waters but were unable to land at Lemnos as the waves were too high for our tender boats.

After another relaxing sea day we arrived at Skiathos, where I swam on a nearby islet that The Beatles once tried to buy. At night, back on the ship, I joined passengers to watch the Mamma Mia! movie on deck ahead of our visit to Skopelos the next day.

Our final stop was in Poros – and a trip to a nearby beach for ­watersports – before heading back to Athens. Of course, food is an important factor on any cruise and you don’t go short on Star Clipper, from buffet breakfasts and lunches to afternoon treats, ala carte dinner and even a midnightsnack.

One afternoon I had a massage – not in a swanky ship spa but in a metal cabin on the top deck. It was every bit as good. For the more active, the ship carried kayaks, ­paddleboards and snorkels– as well as Zodiac boats to make beach landings.

But even the main pool on board offered underwater views – ­windows in the sides and bottom looked into the Piano Bar above the dining room. The main meeting point was the al fresco Tropical Bar on the main deck opposite the library – the shaded deck space in between was used for meetings andyoga.

Much of the time we were able to sail totally under wind, giving a sense of how the ancient Greeks felt as they ventured out on odysseys.

While many cruise ships have lots of distractions, noise and lights, Star Clippers – which also owns a twin ship, Star Flyer, and a bigger sister, Royal Clipper – brings you back to the sea, sunsets and the stars. And each other.

The fact that our cruise was nearly 90% repeat guests shows they must be doing something right. When it comes to bragging rights to the most authentic holiday at sea– to paraphrase Abba – the clipper takes it all…

Book the holiday

• Star Clippers offers a seven-night 2026 Sporades Highlights round trip cruise on Star Flyer from £1,893pp, departing from Piraeus (Athens) and calling at Dikili, Lemnos, Skiathos, Skopelos and Poros. Available on July 25, August 15, September 5 or 26. Flights extra. starclippers.co.uk
• More info at visitgreece.gr